Bobby Pins vs Hair Pins: What's the Difference and When to Use Each

Bobby pins and hair pins look similar enough that many people use the terms interchangeably. But they're actually different tools designed for different purposes. Using a hair pin when you need a bobby pin (or vice versa) explains why your style isn't holding.

This guide clarifies the difference, explains when to use each, and helps you build a toolkit with both.

For complete bobby pin information, see our ultimate guide to bobby pins.

The Fundamental Difference

Bobby Pins

Shape: Two prongs connected at one end. One prong is straight, one is wavy/crimped. Prongs close together.

Mechanism: Grip through friction. The prongs squeeze hair between them, and the wavy side creates friction against your scalp.

Function: Secure flat sections of hair to your head.

Hair Pins (U-Pins)

Shape: Two parallel prongs of equal length, forming a U. Both prongs are straight. Prongs stay open.

Mechanism: Anchor through weaving. The prongs weave through twisted or coiled hair, holding through mechanical anchoring.

Function: Anchor buns, coiled sections, and twisted updos in place.

Visual Comparison

How They Work

Bobby Pin Action

1. You squeeze the prongs apart (slightly)
2. Insert into a flat section of hair
3. Release, prongs squeeze hair between them
4. Wavy side grips against scalp
5. Hair is pinned flat against head

The grip is friction-based. The pin squeezes and creates friction to hold.

Hair Pin Action

1. You slide the open U into a twisted/coiled section
2. Prongs weave through the hair structure
3. The U shape hooks around hair
4. Hair mechanically trapped around prongs
5. Bun/twist is anchored in place

The grip is structural. The pin weaves through and holds mechanically.

When to Use Bobby Pins

Bobby pins are the right choice for:

Flat Pinning

• Sweeping hair behind ears
• Pinning bangs to the side
• Securing sections flat against the head
• Creating sleek, smooth looks

Building Structures

• Creating anchor points
• X-crossing for foundation
• Connecting sections to each other
• Any structural updo work

Detail Work

• Tucking loose ends
• Securing small sections
• Finishing touches
• Precise placement

Half-Up Styles

• Twisting top sections back
• Creating half-ponytail effects
• Securing face-framing sections

French Twists (Partially)

• Securing the twist to the head
• Anchoring sections during building
• (Hair pins also used for the rolled portion)

When to Use Hair Pins (U-Pins)

Hair pins are the right choice for:

Anchoring Buns

• Securing a bun to the head
• Holding rolled hair in place
• Anchoring the base of a bun
• Keeping coiled sections stable

Rolled Updos

• French twists (the rolled portion)
• Chignons
• Victory rolls
• Any rolled or coiled style

Securing Twisted Sections

• Rope twists
• Two-strand twists
• Twisted buns
• Braided buns (securing the coil)

Volume Creation

• Anchoring teased sections
• Supporting lifted areas
• Creating structural volume
• Holding padded or volumized styles

Side-by-Side Use Cases

Using Both Together

Most elaborate styles use both bobby pins AND hair pins:

French Twist Example

Bobby pins used for:

• Creating initial anchor points
• Securing twist to the head at base
• Finishing touches, tucking ends

Hair pins used for:

• Holding the rolled portion of the twist
• Anchoring through the coiled hair
• Securing the overall structure

Bun Example

Bobby pins used for:

• Creating foundation anchor
• Securing any loose sections around bun
• Finishing work at edges

Hair pins used for:

• Anchoring bun to head
• Weaving through the coiled hair
• Structural hold of the bun shape

Common Mistakes

Using Bobby Pins Like Hair Pins

The problem: Trying to anchor a bun by just pushing bobby pins into it from the outside.

Why it fails: Bobby pins grip by squeezing. A bun needs weaving/structural anchoring.

The fix: Use hair pins through the bun, bobby pins for flat sections and finishing.

Using Hair Pins Like Bobby Pins

The problem: Trying to pin a section flat to your head with a hair pin.

Why it fails: Hair pins don't squeeze. They need twisted structure to weave through.

The fix: Use bobby pins for flat pinning, hair pins for coiled sections.

Using Only One Type

The problem: Owning only bobby pins OR only hair pins.

Why it limits you: Different tasks need different tools. You can't do everything with one type.

The fix: Have both in your toolkit.

Building Your Toolkit

Essential Bobby Pin Kit

• Standard size (2") for general use
• Mini size (1.5") for fine/thin hair and detail work
• Jumbo size (2.5"+) for thick hair

Essential Hair Pin Kit

• Standard U-pins (2.5-3") for most buns
• Longer pins (3-4") for thick hair or large buns
• Decorative hair pins for visible placement

When Starting Out

If you only buy one:

• Bobby pins are more versatile for everyday styling
• Add hair pins when you start doing buns and updos regularly

FAQs

Are bobby pins and hair pins the same thing?

No. Bobby pins have one wavy prong and grip by squeezing. Hair pins (U-pins) have two straight prongs and anchor by weaving. They serve different purposes.

Can I use bobby pins instead of hair pins?

For some tasks, but not all. Bobby pins can't anchor buns as effectively as hair pins. For flat pinning and detail work, bobby pins are better.

Which one do I need for a bun?

Primarily hair pins, which weave through the coiled hair to anchor it. Bobby pins help with foundation work and finishing but don't anchor buns as well.

Why do my bobby pins keep falling out of my bun?

Likely because you're using bobby pins where you need hair pins. Bobby pins grip by squeezing, hair pins anchor by weaving. Buns need weaving anchors.

Do professionals use both?

Yes. Hairstylists use bobby pins for flat pinning, foundation work, and detail finishing. They use hair pins for anchoring buns, rolls, and coiled sections.

What about spin pins?

Spin pins are a third option that works specifically for buns. See spin pins vs bobby pins for comparison.

The Bottom Line

Bobby pins and hair pins are complementary tools, not interchangeable ones:

Bobby pins: Grip by squeezing. Use for flat pinning, foundations, detail work, half-up styles.

Hair pins: Anchor by weaving. Use for buns, rolls, coiled sections, structural support.

Understanding which tool to use for which job explains why styles sometimes fail and how to fix them. Most versatile styling uses both.

For complete bobby pin mastery, see our ultimate guide to bobby pins and how to use bobby pins: 15 essential techniques.